John and Rachel Visit Istanbul

 We were delighted to have John and Rachel to stay, even if it was only for a short time. With little time to spare, we arose early on their first morning, and took a dolmuş, followed by a ferry, to  Eminönü on the European shore. There we caught the ferry that travels the length of the Bosphorus, the 32km long strait that divides Europe and Asia. This cruise is one of the best, and most leisurely ways, to gain an overview of this great city, Istanbul.

John and Rachel look out over the Bosphorus

Arriving at the last stop, Anadolu Kavağı, we hastened to bag one of the best tables at a waterside restaurant Our fish meal was delicious, as we sat and looked out at the passing ship.

Our salad starter in Anadolu Kavağı

Day two found us at the Grand Bazaar, another iconic Istanbul tourist mecca. Here, John managed to haggle with the vendors, until they were nearly on their knees, and managed to secure some good bargains.

Rachel, looking at some colourful scarves

 John, in the middle of haggling; unfortunately, the vendor didn't want his photo taken.

 

John was quite taken by the impressive array of watches!

...hmmm, aviator sunglasses, will I ...won't I?

...too much choice!

From the Bazaar, we walked down the narrow streets, full of little shops, until we reached the Bosphorus and stopped for tea.

John chose this delectable treat, a mosaic cake 

...and Rachel chose this scrummy-looking strawberry tart.

We finished the day by walking over the Galata Bridge, where the local fishermen catch whatever fish is in season. At the moment it looks like Hamsi, the European Anchovy. The fishermen were casting multiple hooks, which they dangled in the water, and then hauled in  8 or 10 of the little creatures at a time.

On John and Rachel's last day, they set off alone, with a few written phrases in Turkish, to visit the Hagia Sophia, and return to the Grand Bazaar. Fortunately, they returned to us safe and sound, and we were able to enjoy our final dinner together before their early departure the next day.

Rachel chose Turkish-style fish and chips...

...John chose a rather delicious-looking curry and rice

We had fun, and hope John and Rachel did too, as we would love to have them back again/

Our Last Day in Chania, Crete, with ARIT

 

The charming Chania lighthouse, built of stone blocks

On our last morning with Joanna, our Greek guide, we walked to Chania's archaeological museum. The museum is housed in the Venetian curch of St Francis, which once belonged to the Franciscan monks.

On the way, we passed an old Ottoman mosque, the Yiali Tzami, 

right on the edge of the harbour.

There is no minaret, as this was demolished in the early 20th century. The mosque was dedicated to Küçük Hassan Pasha, the first Ottoman military governor of Chania, and  was the first mosque built in Crete after the Ottoman conquest of the city in 1649.

This, the Firkas Fortress, was the headquarters of the Military Commander 

of the city in Ottoman times. 

Built by the Ottomans in 1629, the fortress was used to protect the Sea of Crete from pirates. A chain was stretched from the "Firka" to the lighthouse, at the entrance to the port, to help prevent attacks.

The Lefka Ori (“White Mountains”) form a backdrop to the City of Chania

As we walked to the museum, we couldn't help but notice the graffiti everywhere. 

Joanna, our Greek guide, said that it had proliferated as a form of protest against the EU cuts. Words were lost on us, as we couldn't understand the Greek, but some were more visually graphic...

...as in this one. This appeared to be a stencil that someone had made, 

as I noticed the same one in several places.

Here, Joanna is telling us about this Roman mosaic, showing scenes from the Dionysiac cycle, 

and the myth of Poseidon and the nymph Amymone. 

The museum was small, but nonetheless fascinating, with its chronologically arranged artifacts from the city's history. We saw pottery, carved stone objects, seal stones, sculpture, metalwork, gold jewellery and coins. The seal stones are particularly fascinating, as everyone had a unique seal, that was never replicated, even after the owner had passed on. The seals are intricately carved, with very fine detail, an example of exquisite craftsmanship.

From the museum, we walked back to the hotel to catch our bus to the airport.

On the way, we passed the marble fountain in Plateia Venizelou, Chania

We were delighted to see this horse and carriage at the port. 

It reminded us of the Princes Islands and home.

This was a short trip, and so packed with information, that is was difficult to digest everything at once. Fortunately, I have the Blue Guide to Crete, to read at my leisure. Crete is a fascinating island, and one I would like to return to one day.

Eleutherna, and Chania, Crete

 The archaeological excavation site at Eleutherna

 Our next expedition led us to Eleutherna, one of the capital cities of ancient Crete, during the time of the Homeric epics (ca. 1000–600 B.C.). We were fortunate that Nikos Marangoudakis was prepared to give us his time, and guide us around the site, which is closed to te general public at this time. Nikos is assistant to  Professor Stampolidis (chief archaeologist of the site), and an authority on this era.

The map of the site shows how extensive it is. The area we visited is 

number 7, in the centre of the map

Unfortunately, we were unable to take photographs on the site, as many of the new finds have yet to be published. Eleutherna, situated in the foothills of Mount Psiloritis, is one of the most important archaeological sites on Crete. It was voted into the ‘Top 10 excavations of 2009’ by the Archaeological Institute of America. Central to the excavations is a cemetery, dating from the 9th to 6th century BC. Unlike other civilisations, the Spartans and Cretans built their cemeteries in the middle of the town, as a way of keeping in touch with the past and their ancestors. We were very lucky to have Nikos, Joanna and Çiğdem, with all their comprehensive knowledge, to guide us through this extraordinary site.

We climbed up onto the platform, and looked down on an amazing sight of artifacts

that had lain buried for 3,000 years.

Nikos and Çiğdem

Reluctantly, we said goodbye to Nikos, and headed off to the beautiful city of Chania, our next overnight stay. This ancient city began as a Minoan settlement, and faced conquerors and influences of different civilizations throughout the ages. This is still evident today in its traditional architecture, and in many of its monuments, dating from Venetian and Ottoman times.

Chania Cathedral, dedicated to Panagia Trimartyri (Virgin of the Three Martyrs), 

the patron saint of Chania.

Etz Hayyim, a unique little Romaniote synagogue in the old town's former Jewish quarter, which dates from the 14th century. Destroyed in WWII, this synagogue was lovingly restored by the famous writer, cook and artist Nikos Stavroulakis.

As we walked through the town, we came across these men

playing backgammon, just as they do in Turkey.

The Greek Orthodox Church of Agios Nikolaos was constructed in 1320 

by the Dominican brotherhood of Kantia. 

In 1645, the church was later converted into the main mosque of the city, the Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim, also called the Hugar Mosque or Mosque of the Ruler. A minaret was added on its south side, as can be seen on the right.

Chania lighthouse, lit by the dying rays of the sun, is one of the oldest light houses in the world.  

First built by the Venetians between 1595 and 1601, it took its final form, in the shape of a minaret, during the Egyptian Period (1831 - 1841).

St Nicholas Bastion, illuminated at night, is in the middle of the breakwater, and helped 

defend the harbour from raiders. 

We visit Rethymnon and Knossos, Crete

The restored north entrance to Knossos Palace, with the charging bull fresco.

On our second day, we went to Knossos, which has the distinction of being the earliest inhabited site in Crete; the first settlers having arrived some time before 7000 BC. First excavated by Minos Kalokairinos in 1878, the major excavations at Knossos were carried out by Arthur Evans, a Victorian amateur archaeologist.

Dolphins were revered by the ancient Greeks and Romans. These were originally 

a floor covering, which was later hung on the wall when restored.

This, the "royal road", is one of the oldest and best preserved ancient roads in Europe.

Here,we are listening to Çiğdem transporting us back in time!

From Knossos, we were whisked off to the tiny village of Fodele, where the museum of Domenikos Theotokopoulos (1541 – 1614), otherwise known as El Greco, is hidden away at the end of a long lane. The tiny stone cottage which houses the museum lays claim to being the birthplace of El Greco, although there is some doubt about this.

This room in the museum looks as if El Greco has just stepped outside for a moment!

We wondered whether Black Adder got his inspiration from El Greco!

Lunch was calling, but we still had visits to make, so we headed for Rethymnon, our next port of call. Looming over the town is Fortezza, the Venetian fortress of Rethymnon.

Within the Fortezza is the Fortezza mosque, with its impressive dome. Originally built by the Venetians in the 16th century as the Catholic Cathedral of St Nicholas,  it was converted into the Ottoman Mosque of the Sultan Ibrahim Han, following the fall of Rethymnon to the Turks. Today, it is used as a concert hall as the acoustics are amazing!

Here we are inside the Fortezza Mosque

The richly decorated Rimondi fountain, is situated at Platanos square, the centre of the Venetian town. It was built in 1626, by A.Rimondi, in order to provide the citizens with drinkable water.

Finally, it was time for lunch in a delightful, waterside restaurant, where the waiter serenaded us!

Lunch over, we wandered through the old town of Rethymnon. Unlike Heraklion, this is an attractive town, with evidence of Ottoman and Renaissance-style Venetian architecture.

 Evidence of Rethymnon's Ottoman past

We saw many fine old Ottoman buildings in Rethymnon

When we got to our hotel in Rethymnon, I followed the porter to my room along a long corridor. At the end, I could only see houses through the window. I had resigned myself to a room at the back, until I opened the curtains in my room, and saw this...

Wow! What a view!